Ummm, so I need to replace a bunch of my fuses.
I replaced them with ones from a 30amp pack a long time ago.

I had a weird problem with my blinkers today.
My aftermarket gauges operate.(ed) on the same circuit. The fuse probably should have blown, but instead it carboned up the fuse at the fusebox. Wiggle the fuse and all starts working again. Repeat. Now everything works fine.

OK except now my alternator light is on dimly. Crap. Blown diode. At least i have a lifetime warranty on the alternator. it's still charging.

So I have to replace the alt. and maybe the BRAND NEW REGULATOR. Dammit. And find the correct fuse, no, a huge pack of the correct fuses, so I can can blow a bunch of them while I find the short to correct the problem without blowing another alternator/regulator.

At least I hope that blowing cheap glass fuses will accelerate the diagnostic process. OR, I could just unplug the gen light. It still charges the battery @ 13V and will continue to start, I'm sure. 13.5 or 14V would be better.
I hate dim headlights.

Actually, most likely I will never recreate the problem, because I am a dumbass. As long as I have the gauges on a different circuit from the turn/stop I might be OK. I was running the gauge lights and the volt meter (seperate from the gen light) on the same turn/stop circuit.

I think i might separate them... gauge lights on the headlight circuit (duh) and volt meter where it belongs.... somewhere I need to buy a bunch more wire for and look in a book, crap........ but it was so much easier the way i had it.
Did I mention I was once certified in automotive electrical systems? It's my car, I can play ;)

Oh BTW, it has nothing to do with the 'chickkenconverter' below (AFAIK). That has it's own 10A fused circut, and still was working.
It might have to do with the volt gauge mentioned which I recently decided I wanted.... not entried